Emirati women have long cared for their beauty and making use of natural materials available in their environment. They refined their knowledge and skill in preparing and applying traditional kohl, known locally as jahal.
Emirati women produced kohl from several sources using various methods. One method involves placing athmad stone on hot embers until it bursts and releases fine particles, which are then soaked in a mixture of water and Arabic coffee for forty days. The mixture is later pulverized, sifted through cloth, and stored in kohl containers. Another method involves soaking the stone in a mixture of water and henna leaves instead of coffee. A third method uses a mixture called naja'a, made from rosewater with saffron or plain water. The stone is soaked for two to three months until soft, then ground, sifted, and stored.
Kohl is traditionally used both for beautification and for eye health. It is believed to widen the eyes, strengthen vision, protect the eyelashes, shield the eyes from intense sunlight, and alleviate or prevent eye irritation, and guard against dust and germs.
Tools traditionally used to prepare and apply kohl include: the mikhala (container), mirwad (applicator), luqa or midrab, mishana or minhaz (grinding tool), and fine cloth for sifting.
Kohl is also prominent in Emirati oral literature. Examples include the proverb: “Kohl by day is beauty, and kohl by night is treasure,” and the saying describing someone exceptionally quick or clever: “He steals the kohl from the eye.”